White Viognier Wine
Those who have been with my column over the years have either embraced my love of the white Viognier ( Vee-own-yay) wine, or thought I should see a wine doctor about this silly fetish. My personal feeling is that the world just hasn’t caught up with this delicious, captivating wine, with its powerful, flavorful strokes of exotic fruit such as peach, papaya and mango that has… yes I admit it… cast its spell on me.
The classic growing area for this complex grape is the Northern Rhone Valley of France, but pockets of this varietal are showing up in California. Acidity levels are low, so it’s a drink-now wine.
In the Rhone, it is the white grape of choice, as Syrah is the red of choice. The grape seems to respond to warm summer daytime temperatures and cool autumn-like nighttime temps. The grape tends to open early and is ready for an early harvest. The full fruit qualities of the wine are enhanced by cool fermentation in stainless steel barrels
The known history of the grape is that it was cultivated during the Roman Empire and brought to the South of France. It arrived in small quantities to California in the 80’s and despite production by a limited number of wineries, Viognier is starting to be felt in the marketplace. So much so that the Wall Street Journal’s wine writers called it a natural alternative to the overpowering taste of most Chardonnays. Production has risen 12-fold since 1996. But the public still has not caught on. I am hard-pressed to find more than a few Viognier choices in any wine shop. It’s not price, as most Viogniers go for between $10 and $30.
Leon Santoro of Orfila Winery in San Diego County made my top ten tastings of 2006 with his “Lotus Lot 45” Viognier ($28). He likes to add two other Rhone style grapes: Marsanne and Rousanne to his mix of Gold Medal wine. He took gold with this combo in Bordeaux France at the most recent International Challenge du Vin. The Journal writers thought the 2005 Incognito from Lodi was the best of their tasting ($19). The future is bright for Voignier. Chefs at the better restaurants are behind it. Nio, if we can get the wine shops to feature it, you will see it fly off the shelves.
San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival Update
The excitement is really cranking up for the biggest festival in Southern California, here in San Diego, November 14 to 18. The schedule of events has been announced and it’s packed with world class activities with wine and food. At last count 16 wineries are coming to the venues, along with 60 restaurants. From a Tommy Bahama Rum VIP party on the 11th, to a Grand Tasting Finale with a $50,000 contest for “Chef of the Fest” on Saturday the 17th.
My annual favorite, the Master Sommelier Blind Tasting with local wine sommeliers being challenged to trace the origin of the wines they taste will be held at the San Diego Wine and Culinary Center on Friday, the 16th from 4:30 to 6pm. The reserve and new release tasting plus a silent auction will be aboard the grand three-deck yacht “Inspiration,” Friday, November 16th from 6:30 to 9:30pm.
For prices and ticket sales, call 877-808-WINE. Or visit www.worldofwine.com.
The Local Sip
Carlsbad Wine Merchants has a fascinating “Green Tasting” August 17 to 19, from 5 to 9pm on Friday, and 2 to 5pm on Saturday and Sunday.
They will feature only organic and biodynamically grown wines.
Tasting fee $20. Call 760-804-9994.***
The Four Seasons Aviara presents Dennis Cakebread of Cakebread Cellars and a fabulous wine dinner on Thursday, August 16, starting with a 6:30pm reception. For pricing and RSVP, call Michael Ann at 760-603-3790.***
Le Fontainebleau Room in The Westgate Hotel will be host to Wattle Creek and Michael Scholz featuring a lovely wine dinner on Thursday, August 16 at 6pm. Chef Fabrice Hardel will pair his food with the Alexander Valley Sonoma winery. Cost is $79 per person. Call 619-557-3723 for an RSVP.***
Ray and Loretta Falkner will host a new release dinner at Falkner Winery in Temecula on Saturday, August 25 starting at 6pm. Falkners’ 2002 Amante was one of my top ten tastes in ’06. The new ’04 Amante among others will be previewed that evening. $95 per person. Call 951-676-8231.Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410
