The battle over Brunello pedigree ends: Banfi cleared
Finally, the news I have been waiting for. The Tuscany Siena District Attorney, Italy’s agricultural minister and the U.S. Ambassador to Italy guaranteed that Brunello could continue to be exported into the United States, preventing an embargo on the 2003 vintage.
There had been an extensive investigation into whether Montalcino vineyards, home of the Sangiovese inspired Brunello clone, had been compromised with other grapes, in violation of the “DCOG” rules set up by the Italian government. In addition to pointing a finger at Banfi, other classic vintners were painted with the same brush, including Antinori, Frescobaldi and Argiano. The 2004, aging in cellars, were also prohibited from going to market.
In a routine 3 year monitoring of production from 2004 to 2007, the consortium whose job it is to make sure there is compliance with the “DCOG” (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) which rules that only Sangiovese from officially registered vineyards can be produced as Brunello, found one percent that did not conform. Banfi, the 7,100 acre Brunello powerhouse, and leading wine estate in Montalcino, protested this potentially devastating “stop sign” put up by Italian authorities as an affront to the integrity of the Brunello name.
Some 25% of all Brunello is purchased in the U.S. market. Meanwhile there were screams of “I want my Brunello” from Brunello lovers in restaurants, wine shops and consumers who are accustomed to the luscious characteristics of this varietal that are unique in all the world. Harvesting Brunello at the Banfi estate in Montalcino U.S. authorties took a serious view of the allegations, and threatened to stop importation of all Brunello until “we know exactly what is being sold as Brunello.”
In a statement just released, Castello Banfi’s 2003 Brunello was cleared and affirmed as produced with 100% Sangiovese. It is now proceeding with bottling its 2004 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino. Banfi has again earned its reputation as being dedicated to the finer wine world, with its Brunello acclaimed as an international leader in excellence. You may access Banfi at www.castellobanfi.com. 3rd Corner Wine Shop & Bistro has it right The second location of 3rd Corner Wine Shop & Bistro was recently opened in the Lumberyard center in Encinitas by Ed Moore, formerly of Thee Bungalow restaurant, a long-time favorite in the Ocean Beach district of San Diego.
Ed developed a format for a wine bar with a bistro style restaurant and retail wine shop component that adds up to an effective combination. I applaud this “advantage-customer” concept where a bottle of wine can be purchased at a reasonable market price, and for a nominal $5 corkage fee, have it opened at the bar for a glass or two, then take it to a dining table to pair with a light rustic dinner.
And this is no “lip-service” wine selection. You will find up to 1,000 selections, including a Vintage Room with a treasure trove of famous, collector style wines sitting in a 55 degree storage room. Hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 10am to 1:30pm. I asked about the late night dining and Marc Plummer the wine manager enthused that 3rd Corner “ is getting lots of workers who get off late and enjoy a light bite to eat.”
Casual, comfortable leather couches in the bar area provide an easy conversational atmosphere. I sampled a Sonoma red of 60% Merlot and 40% Cab that I thought had a charm and warmth to it that merited its selection. Bell Mountain Red 2004 is a winner and it’s from the lovely Alexander Valley. It’s just $22.00 at 3rd Corner. Check out this newcomer at www.the3rdcorner.com.
The Local Sip
- A La Costa favorite, Tuscany Ristorante Italiano, has a wine dinner planned for Friday, Sept. 5, with a reception at 6:30pm. Tastings will include offerings from the newly created MZ Wines, distributors of fine Italian wines, featuring Tamaso Maggiore’s Sicilian Lusso varietals. They include Rosso Nero D’Avola Syrah, and the new sensation, Luxus One Chardonanay. A lovely dinner of five courses will please. $75 pp. To RSVP, call 760-929-8111.
- The Food and Wine Classic from the Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association will be presented on Saturday, Sept. 6 starting at 5:30pm at Wiens Family Cellars. Temecula chefs will coordinate with Temecula award winning wines. A silent auction will add to the fun and benefit a local charity. Cost is $95 each. Call 801-800-WINE.
- San Diego State starts up another series of the Business of Wine classes with a professional certification. First class is Exploring Wine starting Monday, Sept. 8 with other classes Sept. 23 and Oct. 11. Call 619-594-6924. Dan Pilkey, 27 and a graduate, is now an advanced sommelier at Addison at the Grand Del Mar, an upscale resort. Dan is just one of many success stories for this resource-driven wine program.
- Wine Street in Carlsbad has its best wines for under $20 highlighting the tasting on Friday, Sept. 5, 4pm to 7:30pm. Red and white wines from Napa to Spain will please. $15 pp. Call 760-431-8455.
- Bacchus Wine Market, downtown San Diego, has great bargains from Central and Southern Italy Friday, Sept. 5 from 4pm to 9pm and Saturday, from 2pm to 9pm. Fee is $15 ea. Sample Rosso Piceno, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano, Rosso Toscano, Aglianico and Primitivo.
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top five wine commentators on the web. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
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