The
Only True Port Comes From Portugal
Port
is that lusciously sweet wine that usually makes me tingle and my ears
bake as I indulge after a great dinner. It loosens the soul, and lifts
the spirits.
Sweet
fortified Port is the foremost wine of Portugal with ten different styles,
the best of which is “vintage port.” It comes from the hilly
northeast region of Douro where they still tread on the grapes by foot,
meticulously handcrafting the wine using ancient methods.
If
you are an insider who enjoys a great sip of Port, you have noticed
that most great port has a proper British name on the label, such as
Graham, Cockburn, Dow and Imperial. The “Brits” came through
Portugal in the late 1600’s looking for wines that would go well
with the British palate and wound up in the Douro region. The wine they
discovered was smoother, sweeter and more fascinating than anything
they had tasted.
Port
comes from just one area of the globe, a 70 mile area of the Douro River
Valley. These are extremely steep banks and tough to till at best. The
near-rock surface drains well and roots tunnel deeply for nourishment
to withstand the extreme hot weather of the growing season. Port is
always a blend of different varietals, giving it complexity.
Touriga
Nacional is the most important grape for its intense color, flavor and
aroma. Natural grape spirits (clear brandy) is added to the fermented
grapes, stopping the process and enhancing the sweetness of the wine,
leaving a liquid that is ideally 10% residual sugar and 20% alcohol.
The
aging then begins. Vintage Port, the most sought-after, is bottle aged
and it is suggested that it be decantered due to sediment build-up.
Aged
Tawny Port is among the best-loved. It can be served as an aperitif
or at the close of a meal. Tawny Port is a blend left in a barrel for
years until it takes on a nutty, brown sugar and vanilla flavor and
a soft, silky texture, usually about ten years. Because Port is fortified,
it will last longer than the average wine, once it’s opened. A
cool place is best to store it, and a rule of thumb is several weeks
to three months before finish.
Use
a glass that can be comfortably swirled and pour a smaller serving,
about 2 to 3 ounces. Same as wine, put your nose in the glass and inhale
the aroma of licorice, figs, cinnamon, mocha and spicy fruits. It’s
the perfect cap to a fine dinner. The only reaction to be aware of…
it may be time for a nap after a fine Port.
***
Lets’ shop for new wines. I have recently tasted some interesting
value wines that I’ll share with you:
-
Ferrari Carano 2003 Prevail “West Face.” A fine blend of
Cabernet and Syrah grapes, grown on the steep slope of Lookout Mountain
in the Alexander Valley of Sonoma. Intense concentration. French Oak
stored (see photo.) $50.
-
Silkwood 2001 Syrah, Stanislaus. Handcrafted to extract the elegance
of Syrah. The red wine selected by Japan Airlines first class. $28.
-
Cline Ancient Vine 2003 Zinfandel, Contra Costa. I love old vine Zin
and this did not disappoint. Dark berries, coffee and chocolate. Long
lingering finish. $12.
-
Alois Legeder 2005 Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige Italy. This is a dry, white
wine that scored a 90 point “Smart Buy” in Wine Spectator.
Showed up on the wine list at the 4 Seasons Aviara. $ 9.50.
-
Marques de Casa Concha 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile. A Maipo Valley
Concha y Toro wine, which gives it lots of credential. Big black cherry,
fig aroma and taste, with easy to take tannins. $13.
The
Local Sip
Callaway Vineyard and Winery in the Temecula Valley hosts a 1st annual
“Walk About the Barrel Room” Tasting with the Winemaker,
Saturday April 21 from 4 to 7pm. 8 food and wine stations will welcome
guests in the beautiful new barrel room that was the place for the big
recent regional tasting in Temecula. Winemaker Art Villarreal provides
the inside info and a unique blind tasting. Chef Will Greenwood applies
his “Best Chef of America” touch to the food pairings. $65.
per person. Call 951-676-4001 for information.
***
The North County Grand Benefit Tasting, “Pinot Noir Around the
World” will be held at Wine Street in Carlsbad, Friday April 20th
at 5:30pm. Taste the best Pinots from Burgundy to Santa Barbara. $25
tasting fee. Call 760-845-2170 for details.
***
The next Banfi Winemakers Dinner is at Delirio’s in La Jolla on
Tuesday April 24th at 7pm. Banfi’s current releases will be poured
with a paired menu. Check it out at 858-456-5821. $75 per person.
***
Sante in La Jolla has its annual San Marco dinner and wine event on
Wednesday, April 25th at 7pm. Four course dinner with special Italian
wines presented by Marco Barat as MC. $90 per person. Call 858-454-1315
for reservations.
Carlsbad
resident Frank Mangio is a Wine Spectator certified wine connoisseur.
You can reach him at mangiompc@aol.com. Phone is 760-632-1199.