Questions
often asked: glasses and “shiraz” or “syrah”
One of your most frequently asked questions centers around wine glasses
or stemware as the industry likes to call its products. The questions
e-mailed to me include: “Why do I have to have different glasses
for different wines? What about those “O” style glasses?
Do better glasses really make the wine taste better?”
Of
course, any glass will work, but if your knowledge of wines continues
to grow, it naturally will extend to the vessel you drink from. The
wine glasses I see in some stores, even wineries that should know better,
make me chuckle.
These
are the multi-colored courtesy renderings of grapevines, wine drinkers,
even a hedonistic Bacchus, the god of wine, cavorting around adoring
maidens. What a hoot! How can you expect to properly taste wine with
those busy obstructions.
Wine
glasses should be clear, with a tulip-like shape, preferably handmade
of 20% to 24% crystal. The rim of the glass should be thin and the stem,
long and thin. Your hand should be holding the glass at the stem, not
on the bowl where it will drive up the temperature of the wine. There
really needs to be only three types of wine glasses: a Burgundy (pinot
noir) glass, a Bordeaux (cabernet) glass, and a Chardonnay (Chablis)
glass. The differences are the height and bowl diameter to fully exploit
the wine’s ambience and deliver the best enjoyment.
If
I had but one choice, it would be the Bordeaux glass, the tallest, standing
about 10 inches. A glass of this structure can cost about $20 each.
This allows for a pour up to the widest point of the bowl (less than
a third of the glass), so that the taster can look down into the bowl,
swirl the glass to allow oxygen into the wine for best taste, and smell
the bouquet of the wine awakening the senses.
The
two names to look for that are of top quality are Riedel and Spieglau,
both European brands. They take great care in shaping the flow of the
wine to the taste buds of the tongue, and independent experts swear
the wine actually can taste better in these glasses. The wine is then
able to achieve its fullest expression.
Regarding
the “O” glass, I don’t recommend it. The bowl is the
entire glass, so it has to sit on the palm of your hand. Swirling is
impossible and smelling the bouquet is also out.
Some
cautions when ordering wine by the glass in a restaurant. Try to avoid
this practice. You never really know what you are getting when you don’t
see the bottle it came from. Chances are the wait-help will bring out
a small glass and over fill it, canceling any taste testing. When you
order a bottle, be firm about a proper sized glass, and don’t
let them over fill it. Another thing, make sure it is a crystal clear,
clean glass.
And
you thought the wines were a lot to learn about!
***
Another
frequent question I get is the difference between syrah and shiraz.
Well, they’re both the same grape. The only difference is where
they come from.
The only true shiraz is from Australia, even though you may see the
name cropping up in some California wineries trying to capitalize on
its popularity. Elsewhere in the world, the term is syrah. This is an
old world grape, originally from the Rhone district of southern France,
possibly going back to 500 B.C.
It’s one of the fastest growing varietals in California going
from 1,200 tons in 1992, to over 100,000 tons a few years ago. It is
a forgiving grape and will survive much stress.
A man who can talk for hours about his “Val de la Mer” Syrah
is Leon Santoro of Orfila Winery in Escondido, who grows his sun-loving
Syrah in the hills next to his winery. A rich jammy flavor ensues, with
strong flavors of wild berries and cherries. His vintages have taken
many gold medals. Visit at will.
The
Local Sip
Wine Merchants of Carlsbad is today unveiling its new Italian Vineyards
portfolio. Tasting starts at 2pm. Fee is $20. Call 760-804-9994 for
the lineup.
***
The
premier winemaker series at Four Seasons Aviaria continues on Tuesday
April 3rd at 6:30pm, with the presentation by Larry MacGuire, owner
of Far Niente Winery in Napa. This is a fabled property with heavenly
wines of exacting standards. The winery’s gardens reportedly has
the largest collection of Azaleas in the world. Cost is $160. RSVP at
760-603-3790.