Paso Pleases San Diego in Lively Road Show
Paso Robles is up to 170 wineries and counting, and these days, wine lovers make it a must-stop on their wine country tours. Forty-two of the labels set up at the San Diego Wine and Culinary Center recently to break out their best for the trade, media and public.
Their two major spokespeople, Chris Taranto and Stacie Jacob (shown in the accompanying photo with this writer) were only too happy to talk about the wonderful wines coming out this year. Paso Robles (Spanish for “pass of oaks”) is on either side of Highway 101, centrally located between San Francisco and Los Angeles, with about 26,000 acres of vineyards.
The area’s heritage wine is Zinfandel, but some great Syrah and other Rhone variety grapes also do well. Cabernet Sauvignon is still the leader though with 38% of the vines planted. Paso has the widest swing of daytime-night time temperatures than any other appellation in the state.
The city sits at about 740 feet above sea level, with vineyards on the west side of the 101 rising as high as 2,000 feet with close proximity to the Pacific Ocean. Lately, around the town square, boutique wineries have set up tasting rooms and hospitality centers, encouraging walking tours.
It helps give the visitor a feel of what is offered in this lively, lovely and traditional California town. I was particularly interested in visiting the Tablas Creek booth and Jason Haas. His father is Robert Haas who is now 80 years old and kicked off the trend to the Rhone French varietals in 1989. It took many years to successfully cultivate his own grapes, and even now Tablas Creek makes just 18,000 cases yearly.
The chalky, calcium-rich topography and high ”ph” soil just 12 miles from the ocean replicate the southern Rhone Chateuanneuf-du-Pape terroir. Haas emphasizes to would-be vintners that “if you are not farming well, you’re not making good wine. That’s where everything starts.” Jason opened a bottle of the 2005 Esprit de Beaucastel, a critics favorite and the winery’s proprietary blend, and it was tasting beautifully.
Justin Vineyards and Winery is the westernmost Paso wine outpost, and one not to miss in your touring. Kevin Sass, the winemaker, has constantly and skillfully produced one of the finest blended wines in the state with its Isosceles. The 2005 vintage is just out. The vines are aggressively pruned early for strong early growth. Sun exposure and air circulation intensify color and tannins. A reduced yield in ’05 perfected the crop.
After a year in barrel, the blending formula used was: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cab Franc and 7% Merlot for bright, red fruit and an elegance to the blend. After blending, the wine was stored for 18 months in French oak. Justin suggests a minimum 3 years aging after purchase, but I couldn’t wait. The taste was a delightful combination of berry, leather, mocha and caramel, with a strong hint of vanilla sweetness.
I was entranced by the beauty of the flavor. If you would like to taste Isosceles and other Justin favorites, there is a wine dinner event at Iris Restaurant Food and Spirits, 2334 Carmel Valley Road in Del Mar on Tuesday April 8, from 6:30pm. Call 858-259-5878 for details. Justin’s web site is: www.justinwine.com.
The Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance web site is: www.pasowine.com
The Local Sip
• Steve and Andy Wilson have opened a new wine shop in Oceanside, The Wine Spot, and their next event is Friday March, 28 to Sunday, March 30 for April Fool’s Blind Tasting. Six tastings and appetizers for $20. Prizes for correct blind tastings. Call 760-434-9463 for details and times.
• A Harvest Festival of Wines from the Southern Hemisphere is the theme on Friday, March 28 at the Carlsbad Wine Merchants. Harvest is just beginning down under, including New Zealand, Australia, South Africa and Argentina. Time is 5 to 8pm. $20. Call 888-750-WINE
• Callaway Winery in Temecula has its unique “Walk About the Barrel Room” event on Saturday, March 29 from 4 to 7pm. Taste your way through the barrel-room with winemaker Bela Varga. Also taste the cuisine of the new restaurant on the property, Meritage. $65 per person with RSVP’s by calling 951-676-4001.
• Wiens Family Cellars in Temecula has its “Pinot Noir Shootout” on Tuesday, April 1 from 7 to 9pm. Taste 10 great Pinots in a classroom setting. Join winemaker Doug Wiens in tasting and learning. Cost is $59. Call 951-694-9892.
• Firefly Grille and Wine Bar in Encinitas has its annual Artichoke Wine Dinner on Thursday, April 3 at 6pm. A four course meal featuring many expressions of artichoke will be served with Clos LaChance Wines. “ We want to show diners that artichokes have limitless possibilities,” said owner Jim Barasso. Cost is $75 per person. Check out more at 760-635-1006.
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top five wine commentators on the web. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
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