MONTALCINO
Italians have a lovely, intimate saying that connects wines with the human experience. The cozy, warm and fuzzy phrase goes like this: "Amici e vini sono meglio vecchi."
Translated it means: "Friends, like wine, are best when aged." My first direct experience with the Italian way of making and keeping wine and friends, was in Tuscany a few years ago, in the hillside town of Montalcino.
This medieval look-out village is the home of the passionate and provocative Brunello di Montalcino wines, with about 200 wineries and a total of 500.000 cases. In price, they tend to be from $40 to $100, but they are worth it.
Now, the wines from 2001 are out, after 6 years of being cultivated in barrel and bottle. They are glamorous, glorious and are a "perfetto" example of the big earthy taste of the Tuscan style of wine. Originally a clone of the Sangiovese grape, the wines have a style that only a Brunello can deliver.
Credit the exclusive soil, sun-baked climate of Montalcino and time in a barrel. Brunellos can lay down for years, or you can "drink now" but use a decanter and let it sit for an hour. Wine Spectator has a 98 point rating on the 2001's. They are great wines, and nowhere will you find a better example than Castello Banfi, the most noble winery of them all with over 7,000 acres in the foothills of Montalcino.
When I visited Banfi, I discovered that it is really a number of vineyards rising from 300 to 1,200 feet. On closer inspection there is lots to see: an ancient castle, winery and cellars, first class restaurant, "enoteca" and a glass museum considered to be of great importance for its collection of Roman era vessels. Brunello is a signature wine of Banfi, but the winery also produces many more varietals in a range of prices.It has recently been named the European Winery of the Year and Italy's Premier Vineyard Estate.
North County resident Rita Dilello has been representing Banfi in this area for the past two years and she has raised the image of the Banfi brand with restaurants, wine shops, resorts and wine events, spreading the gospel of Banfi.
The 2001 Brunello will be the trophy wine at Dilello's latest presentation at the charming Westgate Hotel in San Diego on Thursday March 22nd with a reception at 6:30pm.
Another sparkling wine I have had glowing reports about is Banfi's Rosa Regale, a regal dessert wine, which will also be poured with matching "Dolce." Here's a wine term I have more than a passing interest in, and could possibly be a trend on the business end: the "negociant."
France has had a long tradition in wine negociants. These professional buyers of grapes don't own vineyards or even make wine. They get involved with buying mass quantities of surplus wines, give them a clever label or phrase (read "two-buck chuck") and ship them out to cut-rate stores like Trader Joe's, 7-11 and Target. Unfortunately in the U.S. the quality of the wines hasnÕt been that good.
In France, their mission is different. If the negociant I met at a recent French tasting is an example of how it is, at the Aquitaine Company in Bordeaux, it's a caring, first-person attitude with a focus on quality and partnership.
The grower's accomplishments come first with an accompanying marketing of the wine's appellation. The whole story is not low price, but hand-crafted artisan style wines by caring farmers.The Local Sip
Giuliano Bugialli, the foremost English-speaking authority and author on Italian food and wine pairing, is guesting at a four course dinner and book-signing this Friday evening at the Four Seasons Resort Aviara, in Carlsbad.
Old world family recipes and photography are included in his new book, "Parma, A Capital of Italian Gastronomy" a copy of which is included with the cost starting at $95 per person. Wines served include Pinot Bianco from Alto Adige, Travaglini from Piemonte and Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Tuscany. Reservations from 8:30pm on are still available at 760-603-3773 .
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Vineland the Music, a tale in the life of Don Melchor de Concha y Toro, the Chilean wine making legend, will be performed at the Lyceum Theatre, downtown San Diego on Monday March 26th at 7pm. A wine reception to taste the current vintage will be at 6:30pm. Tickets are complimentary but must be reserved.* * *
This Saturday from noon to 3pm, Wine Street in Carlsbad presents winemakers direct from Spain, with their top shelf vintages in "A Taste of Spain." It's their only Southern California appearance. Cost is $20 per person.
Reserve your place at 760-431-8455.
10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410