Italian Grape from Chianti Revealed in California
Italian winemakers are a romantic lot. The language of wine, especially in Tuscany, is meandering poetry, words of love and some hyperbole. Take Chianti, or more recently, Chianti Classico. Over the years Chianti was getting a bad name, so some of the more influential vintners coaxed the government to crack down and raise the standards.
Now, Chianti can only be made in a district called Chianti Classico. It is named for the grape, which in my judgment is one of the most lovely in the world: Sangiovese. Sangiovese has relaxed elegance with a taste of the terroir, the earth from which it was raised. You will taste a lively acidity that begs for cheese, olive oil and rustic breads. I find that newly won disciples of wine that may not know wine terminology, just simply like it a lot! Sangiovese in California is the focus of this week’s column.
From north to south, unlike Italy, this grape is boldly proclaimed on the label of an increasing number of wineries and is gaining in popularity. In the north, look to Sonoma for some delicious examples as wineries like Pedroncelli grow it in Dry Creek Valley near Geyserville. Their ’05 is just out and is pleasing to the palate. The Seghesio family, back in the late 1800s, was bottling a Chianti containing a blend of Sangiovese, considered America’s oldest Sangiovese planting. On the Central Coast, a small winery, Javardi in Paso Robles has an ’04 Sangiovese that is tasting beautifully.
I am most excited about what I see and taste in Southern California, namely Temecula’s wineries like Palumbo Family, La Cereza, Falkner, Briar Rose and others. In Escondido, Orfila Vineyards and Winery with Leon Santoro (see accompanying photo) brings 13 years of Sangiovese love to the table. Leon himself comes from Tuscany.
In 1995, his Sangiovese “di Collina” (means from the hillside) won Gold at the San Francisco Fair. He smiled and said, “We would have won double gold then but the Tuscan vineyard we received our plantings from, Fattoria Le Bocce, won with their ’93.” Each year since that first accolade, Orfila’s Sangiovese has medaled, including five double golds. See more at www.orfil.com. Italian and Rhone Valley French style grape-growing represent the single best hope to put Southern California wineries on the map. The wave of wineries gaining success with Sangiovese is a real trend that is here to stay.
One Closed Case of 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild. What’s it Worth? Twelve bottles, a case of the above named wine treasures, have been sitting since 1984 in perfectly temperature controlled storage, owned by Gary Parker of WineSellar Brasserie in San Diego. This “vintage of the century” was one of the first to receive a 100 point rating. The wine, in the Bordeaux appellation, is considered a benchmark for the greatest wines ever made. This unopened case is being offered sealed and aged for some 25 years.
A single bottle has been priced at an average $2,000. The public has a unique opportunity to participate in an on-line auction for this case of wine. Between now and midnight March 20, Parker will be taking offers for this rare case. “I urge you to make your best offer right away… I will certainly envy the fortunate person who will ultimately possess one of the most amazing cases of wine on the planet” he said. You can send your offers or any questions you may have to Parker at GParker@WineSellar.com. His phone is 858-450-9557.
The Local Sip
- Thornton Winery in Temecula is celebrating its 20th Anniversary Sunday, March 16 from 11am to 1pm with a Culinary Garden Tasting & Art Show. Executive Chef Steve Pickell and Winemaker Don Reha combine for a wine and dine plus art event. $65 per person. RSVP at 951-699-0099.
- Mellow, a wine bar will be tasting Cabernets from around the world, Tuesday, March 18 from 6pm to 8pm, at Laning Rd and N. Harbor Drive in San Diego. $15 per person. Call 619-223-3488.
- Dynamic Wine and Food Pairing is the class planned by SDSU in San Diego starting Saturday, March 15 at Stuart Cellars in Temecula. Learn how you can be in a wine career by calling SDSU at 619-594-6924.
- The annual Paso Robles Zinfandel Festival is set for Friday, March 14 thru Sunday, March 16. Live auction and Grand Tasting on Saturday, March 15. A full list of wines, pricing and location at www.pasowine.com.
- Italian wine tastings are scheduled at Bacchus Wine Market and Tasting Room downtown San Diego on Friday, March 21. Over 30 wine regions from Piedmont to Sicily. $15 per person. 4 to 6pm. Call 619-236-0005.
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top five wine commentators on the web. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
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