It’s Vegas Baby: Wine & Food New Reason to Go
Yeah, I’ve read all the articles about the slump in visitors and the “take” money being down at the tables. Some hotels are hurting, no doubt and there may be overbuilding. Las Vegas already has 130,000 rooms with 40,000 more coming into place soon with the recent bulding boom.
With this new surge in palatial towers of simply awesome sights, dining establishments have taken on a glitter and culinary standard that matches New York, L.A., London, Rome and Paris. The greatest chefs in the world have staked their position in these resort hotels. Names like Wolfgang Puck, Emeril Lagasse, Charlie Palmer and Mario Batali… the names go on an on like marquee celebrities in the days of Sinatra and Dino.
So where does a wine columnist like myself choose to dine when he has a few days in Vegas?… where the best wine lists are! I could have gone to Aureole in the Mandalay Bay where the wine stewards double as acrobats and climb a four story wine tower for your choice of bottle.
Instead, I went for the newest Mario Batali creation, Carnevino in the new Palazzo Hotel, next to the Venetian, and a traditional, grand steak house on the strip next to the MGM Grand, Smith & Wollensky. Both these remarkable establishments feature royally treated beef in many choice ways with all the most popular cuts. In Las Vegas, it’s all about taking dining to new heights. Forget the buffet cattle-calls.
Mario Batali’s Carnevino is lushly appointed where you can spend up to $145 for a classic Porterhouse for 2. The wine list has a 1986 Rothschild for $3,450 and a 1982 Margaux for $3,700… if you’re so inclined. The Italian list is a head to toe lineup of wines from the Alps to the boot. David Doyle & Noel Cullen of Smith & Wollensky, Las Vegas.
My choice for a classic dinner house is Smith & Wollensky, where the beef is custom treated, the wines are luscious and reasonably priced and the atmosphere is genuine, fun and friendly. Located just north of the MGM Grand and across from the Monte Carlo, this place got its roots in New York City a number of years ago and now has nine locations. A three story fun hotel-look, this restaurant can serve about 700 diners.
The first floor reminded me of a luxurious Irish pub with its spacious, long, richly appointed wood bar. Of course the general manager, David Doyle and his wine steward, Noel Mullen (shown in the photo) really put the accent on that Irish charm. They are both from just south of Dublin. They actually grew up together and got work in the same places including San Diego’s Field Pub in the Gaslamp.
The executive chef, John Piccolino, walked me though the cold room where they dry age all the beef they serve for 28 days, after butchering in the restaurant. Talk about choice cuts! He served me a beautiful Rib Eye Steak that had been marinated 48 hours. The wine pairing that Noel chose was a Rosenblum Meritage Red that perfectly enhanced the steak flavor.
Smith & Wollensky have their own proprietary wine from Napa Valley, a vintage 2004 Private Reserve, cellared by Girard, rich in flavor with a lovely warm finish. Wine dinner events are frequent here and you can check their web site for the one that matches your next trip. And say hello to David, Noel and John for me. They make Smith & Wollensky a warm, happy place.
***
Mark Your Calendars for November 12 thru 16 – Next Date for San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival This is the largest luxury wine and food experience of the year, at the Embarcadero Park North, San Diego, right at the water’s edge. Wine and food vendors are now being accepted by calling Michelle Metter at 619-342-7337.
Tickets to attend the many events over the four days are available now on the 5th annual festival’s website at www.worldofwineevents.com, or call toll free at 877-808-WINE (9463). This festival was recognized in Bizbash Magazine, L.A. Times and Forbes Traveler.com among the top festivals in the area. If you like wine and food, you will love the San Diego Bay Wine & Food Festival.
The Local Sip
- The Four Seasons Aviara presents Fallbrook Winery and owner Ira Gourvitz in a special wine dinner on Thursday, June 19 at 6:30pm. The format is “backyard BBQ” and a luscious buffet with Fallbrook Merlot, Cab, Chardonnay and others. Cost is $82.64 ea. Call 760-603-3790 to reserve.
- The new Alternative Wines in Carmel Valley has “A Summer Solstice” with Chef Monique, Friday, June 20 from 5:30 to 7:30pm. Unusual appetizers with perfectly paired wines. $20 pp. RSVP 858-780-9463.
- Wine Styles in Encinitas has started a Saturday wine tasting with 8 wines for $10 or buy a bottle and cost is waived! More on www.winestyles.net/encinitas.
- Cakebread Cellars of Napa takes the spotlight at Firefly Grill & Wine Bar in Encinitas in a nicely orchestrated wine dinner Wednesday, June 25 at 6:30pm. Chardonnay, Cab and Merlot are all served. Cost is $100 pp. Don’t miss this one! 760-635-1066 for your RSVP’s.
- Wine concerts at Wilson Creek in Temecula kick off on Saturday, June 28 with the Sax Pack and Gregg Karukas. Then Craig Chaquico and Eric Darius follow on Saturday, July 19. Tickets and info at 951-699-WINE(9463).
- “Exploring Wine” courses at San Diego State begin Monday, July 7. I have lectured at this course in the past. It’s is an exciting, knowledgeable overview of old world wines. Find out more at 619-594-6924.
- Wines from France’s Rhone Valley and the wines of Jean Luc Columbo grace the tables at the Westgate Hotel’s next elegant wine dinner Thursday, June 26, starting at 6:30pm. Cost is $89 pp. and includes the gourmet creations of Executive Chef Fabrice Hardel. Reservations at 619-557-3755.
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the top five wine commentators on the web. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410
