Is Napa losing its magic?
What’s going on with the northern California wine district that really started the world-wide movement to California wines?
Hopping from wine shops to hotels, restaurants to wine bars, and the countless wineries that dot the state, I hear the rumblings and remarks that Napa has lost its lead, with overpriced wines and old-guard winemakers that have been left behind in the new direction to world-wide, value wines. Is it the General Motors of the wine industry?
If you have read the book, Judgment of Paris authored by George Taber, you have marveled at the renaissance figures of the 70’s and 80’s that crafted Napa into a cabernet and chardonnay powerhouse: Mondavi, Chateau Montelana, Grgich, Stag’s Leap, Close Du Val, Luis Martini, Beaulieu Vineyards, Charles Krug and Sterling.
The book traces the rise of the early winemakers that emigrated to Napa and became icons of greatness, eventually drawing 5 million visitors a year to its hallowed grounds. Napa was the 2nd most popular tourist attraction, after Disneyland.
Napa land is now only for the super-rich. Large public companies like Constellation and Diageo have been buying up the family wine businesses. The legendary Screaming Eagle, a small 70 acre darling of the cult cabernet lovers, last year sold out to a venture capital firm for an estimated 30 million dollars.
It is in this rather dark report of the state of Napa wines that some light is shining and that’s why Tanya Kinberg of Wine Street in Carlsbad goes up to Napa annually: to find the new light, in the younger wineries that are crafting wines that are turning heads. Tanya sat down with me after her return from “Premiere Napa Valley,” a trade show put on by the Napa Valley Vintners.
This year, over 180 wineries participated. Her goal was to find incredibly beautiful tasting, undiscovered Napa Cabernets.
“I spent an entire week searching out new wines from winemakers on the threshold of greatness,” she said. “That’s where I focus my energy. Napa is full of very small production, hand-crafted wines, really stunning new releases with good value.”
I pressed her for some “A” list names and she was happy to oblige. “We are really wowed by Paul Hobbs, the new legend of Napa, and what he is doing up there. His new project is Vice Versa, a 2003 cabernet with only 210 cases produced, with a cost of $99.99.
The concentration and finesse is fabulously structured. Another is Bisou from the 3 acre James Johnson Vineyard… also 2003 vintage. It’s French for kiss and sells for $79.99. Schrader Cellars was at the top of my list, and their 2004 Double Diamond Cabernet is the one I remember best.
A tremendous value at $47.99.” On the subject of the Napa harvest for 2006, Tanya had a patented wide smile and proclaimed that it was “the best in many years. The yield was down and the quality was way up. Finally, she observed that “sure Napa wines are more expensive, but in the wine industry, as with most others, you get what you pay for…they are worth it.”
Regarding Paul Hobbs, the new wunderkind of Napa, I spoke to Rebecca Laird of Napa’s Laird Family Estate when she appeared recently at Paradise Grille in Del Mar. He is their consulting winemaker and purchases grapes there for his own winery. “We love his attention to detail” exclaimed Rebecca.
“The wines beg to be savored slowly so as to recognize their intricacies.” Laird’s 2001 Diamond Mountain Cabernet was pure polished velvet.
When you make your next trip up to Napa and see the welcome sign at the foot of wine country on Highway 29, remember, there are some 400 wineries in the area and great cabernet and chardonnay are no longer the wines of just a few “household names.”
The Local Sip
For the first time, “A Taste of San Marcos” is a feature of the San Marcos Chamber of Commerce Grand Street Festival, going on today from 10am to 5pm. A reported 30 restaurants and 6 wineries make up the huge “VIP” tent, with an admission of $20 to the “Taste.” The entrance to the festival, on Vera Cruz between San Marcos Boulevard and Grand Avenue, is free.
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Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido has a tour and taste of France, this Wednesday from 5:30pm to 7:30pm. They will be pouring Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne. 302 W. Mission Avenue. Call 760-745-1200.***
Belle Marie Winery at 26312 Mesa Rock Road in Escondido, is celebrating its 7th Anniversary this Saturday from 2pm to 4pm. A wine Taste-Off Challenge will showcase never before released wines of three generations of winemakers. Admission is $10. For more information, call 760-796-7557.
10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410
