Don’t Paso This Wine Country
That headline is sage advice if you’re looking at traveling to vineyards and wineries anytime soon. Paso Robles is one of the most popular wine countries in the state.
In the past six years, the number of bonded wineries in Paso Robles Wine Country has more than tripled, from 50 to 170. Other wineries that are entrenched in more well known appellations north of this one, have made sizable investments in this area. European winemakers and owners are in evidence as relative newcomers to “Paso,” as it is affectionately known by the natives. The younger boutique wineries are capturing the headlines with the personal care of their vintages, and a sense of individual outreach, meeting and greeting up and down the state and in retail wine shops in downtown Paso Robles.
In addition to the wineries, there are some 120 Paso grape growers who sell their fruit to wineries both within and outside the Paso appellation. Here is a lineup of the most popular varietals that are grown in the 26,000 acres: Cabernet Sauvignon 38%, Merlot 15%, Syrah 10% and Zinfandel 9% which is touted as the heritage grape variety. On the upswing are the Rhone and Italian varietals like Viognier, Sangiovese and Petite Sirah.
What struck me in my three day tour of the vineyards, was the temperature swing during the day and night. It is not unusual for a 40 to 50 degree variation due to the cooling marine air of the nearby Pacific Ocean. This really helps the west side (of Highway 101) wineries where the elevation is steep and the fog can roll in to keep things moist and cool. Highway 46 east and west of the 101 is the access road to most of the wineries and accentuates the topographical differences in the west side and eastside wineries.
Sprawling flat fields of grapes dot the east 46 where Meridian dominates. However, one of my top ten tastings earlier this year is also on this side of Paso: Vina Robles with its 2004 Petite Syrah. I tried it again and was still impressed by its concentration and power. A newcomer on the block on the east side is Javadi and its velvet beauty, Sangiovese. Its’ a tiny production version of the Italian varietal that I fell in love with.
One that I was familiar with before setting foot on Paso is Opolo. Opolo is a 70 acre estate vineyard and winery high in the lush hills of the west side. Intense grapes are the rule that translate to fine premium wines like their 2005 Zinfandel Reserve, $38, and the 2003 Rhapsody, a showcase blend of Cabernet France and Merlot from the Westside estate and Cabernet Sauvignon from Opolo’s eastside vineyard, $45.
The 2004 is ready for distribution and should be just as compelling. A French oak storage for 18 months make this one a must for any premium wine drinker. You can get a good sampling of the Opolo wines on Tuesday October 23 from 7 to 9pm at Kensington Vine in San Diego. Cost is $25 per person. Call 619-282-8463 for more.
Mark Davidowski and his associate David Wiegel of Meritage Wine Market in Encinitas also attended the many events in Paso. I asked Mark what he thought were standouts and he chose: Vina Robles, Halter Ranch, Tablas Creek, Opolo and Justin. He thought, with time and more command of the land, Paso could become as attractive as Napa as a wine country. Go to www.pasowine.com for details on a Harvest Wine Tour at Paso October 19 to 21.
The Local Sip
• Mark and his Heritage Wine Market in Encinitas is showcasing 5 years in business with 4 nights of celebration, Wednesday, October 17th with a fine wine and dinner experience starting at 6:30pm; Thursday, the 18th has a Reynolds Napa tasting at 6pm; Friday at 6 has the 5 best wines of the last 5 years; and Saturday, the 20th has a special celebration tasting from 4 to 7pm. Call 760-479-2500 for all details and costs.
• San Diego State University’s College of Extended Studies is hosting a Wine Making Behind the Scenes class on Saturday, October 13 from 8am to 4:30pm at the popular La Cereza Winery in Temecula. You will learn everything from grape to table. This course helps with certification in the wine business. Fee is $195. Call 619-594-6924 for details.
• Un Viaggio in Italia is the theme of an event at Venice Ristorante in San Diego Monday, October 15 from 6 to 10pm. Seven wines from 4 regions will be spotlighted. $99 per person. Call 858-597-1188 for more.
• The Wine D’Vine fundraiser event is Wednesday, October 17 starting at 6:30pm at Mingei Museum at Balboa Park. Five top culinary San Diego masters will match up with 6 California vineyards. $125 per person. Phone number is 619-584-5777 x 249.Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
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