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Dessert Wines Are More than Just Port

I have noticed that many more wine dinners offered by upscale restaurants, are serving some lovely sweet or dessert wines. Most delicate pastries demand a sweet Port, late harvest Riesling, Ice wine or my favorite, the Muscat Canelli.
This southern French and Italian style dessert wine is made from the Muscat grape. More about that later.

I was interested in how the wines get so sweet as to be a dessert in itself. Grapes that are used have to be very high in sugar content. They get that way by being picked after the normal harvest. The sugar may be maximized by allowing the grapes to “raisinate” by laying out on racks before crushing. This waiting process is labor intensive and makes for a more expensive price point for the wines.

Alcohol levels are higher, usually 16 to 19% due to the very high sugar level.
Now to the lovely Muscat Canelli. Muscat grapes were known to have been some of the oldest in France and Italy, brought in by the Phoenicians and Greeks.
The aromas on these dessert wines are captivating. They reek of racy tastes like orange, melon, peaches and apricot. With the holidays fast approaching, the popularity of these dessert wines increases. They have a settling quality about them after a king-size meal.

Now here’s a large sized tip for you. Some of the best Muscat Canellis in the country are from the Temecula Valley. Recently the Wall Street Journal profiled this lovely dessert wine and found two from this neighborhood appellation that they thought were among the best. Another surprise was these Muscats were lower than normal on the alcohol, about 10 to 12%, and although sweet, contained enough acidity to balance the innate sweetness. Served chilled, it relaxes the mind, and the heart.

The two Temecula wineries that made the short Wall Street Journal list of best Muscat Canelli Wines were: Maurice Car’rie ’06 for about $12.95 and Callaway’s ’05 for about $18. Check them out at www.mauricecarriewinery.com.

Fallbrook Winery Offers First Estate Vintage

Owner Ira Gourvitz and winemaker Duncan Williams (Duncan is pouring in the accompanying photo) are readying an estate bottle, the first home-grown grapes to wine since Ira purchased the 36 acre property deep in rural Fallbrook.
The winery features Bordeaux varietals, but has recently been planting Rhone style Syrah. When I visited the winery recently and tasted the current releases I was most impressed with the ’04 Syrah from the Paso Robles area. I expect that the current harvest will also be wonderful and they will be estate grown.

The hillside vineyard is at 1,000 feet elevation with a northwestern exposure and will soon yield Sangiovese. Although the tasting room can be a challenge to find and is by appointment only, a recent Fallbook urban winery tasting room opened across from the San Diego Convention Center is open daily.
Learn more at www.fallbrookwinery.com.

Wines You’re Sure to Like…
• THORNTON ESTATE SYRAH ’05: Dusty berry/black cherry properties. From the hand of Don Reha. $59.
• ARGIOLAS COSTERA ’05: New taste from Sardinia, Italy. At Meritage Wine Market, Encinitas. $16.
• ARZUAGA RESERVA ’01: From Spain, 90% Tempranillo. Found at a Wine Street event in Carlsbad. $47.
• YELLOW TAIL RESERVE SHIRAZ ’06: Don’t laugh, this is a seriously good wine. 90 rating in Wine Spectator. “BevMo” has it for $15.

The Local Sip

• The Four Seasons Aviara presents Rob Fry, wine educator at Bon Climat on the Central California coast, Thursday, November 8th starting at 6:30pm. Their Pinot Noir, Chardonannay and Pinot Blanc wines are well received. $125 per person. To RSVP, call 760-603-3790.
• Quintessa Wines are spotlighted in a lovely wine dinner at Pamplemousse Grill in Del Mar, Tuesday, November 13 at 6:30pm. Phone 858-792-9090. $175 per person.
• Via Italia celebrates ten years in Encinitas Tuesday, November 13 with the legendary Sassicaia Family Wines from Italy’s top rated Bolgheri district in Tuscany. Dinner and wine tasting $110. Start time is 6:30pm. Call 760-479-9757.
• Poseidon on the beach in Del Mar is initiating a wine dinner series Wednesday, November 14 with Moet and Chandon Champagnes. Check with the restaurant for pricing and dinner menu at 858-755-9345.
• Barry Podwell’s Firenze Trattoria proudly welcomes Marchese Antinori to the table Wednesday, November 14, starting at 6pm. Antinori is the maestro of great wines in Tuscany. One of the wines on the menu will be their ’01 Brunello, a knockout! $85 per person. Call 760-944-9000 for more.

Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.

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