California Whites and a German in Washington
I can feel it coming. Warm weather is arriving as May skips in, the garden is blooming with a gorgeous kaleidoscope of colors, and my palate is calling for a chilled, white wine at the end of the day. This is happening more frequently when all I seek is a "cool-down" from a garden-variety wine, maybe a Chardonnay or a Viognier, but more likely a Riesling.
I know I speak volumes on reds, especially Italian. But even Italians stop, smell and taste the whites they make. California is undergoing a transition from a one-white wine state with oceans of Chardonnay, to a mix of choices that include: Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio in Italy), Gewur-ztraminer, Albarino, Chenin Blanc and Rousanne to name a few.
They all have their followers and I've done my share of following Viognier, which originates in the Rhone Valley of France. The complex tropical notes of this lovely varietal has been touted as the successor to Chardonnay for many years, without doing much to move up the ladder.
For my money and pleasure, the real contender is Riesling, and this German midas touch is no better exemplified, not in California but in Washington, with Eroica ($18.). The team of Chateau Ste. Michelle's master winemaker Bob Bertheau and German Riesling wine guru Ernst Loosen, maker of his own Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, are beyond compare.
Great Riesling has soaring acidity, flavor from down deep in the earth, beautifully balanced with low alcohol. "I have learned from Doctor Loosen, how to protect Riesling fruit purity," said Bertheau. "This assures a fresh fruit-driven Riesling."
Expect to enjoy the subtle, dry fruit flavors of apricot, pear, mango and melon. Served cold, 47 to 50 degrees, you will cool down, calm down and hear
running water over mountain streams. PROST!
More at www.eroicawines. com.
The Brother Act at North County Wine Co.
I don't know of anyone who enjoys being on the other side of the bar in their own wine shop than Jim and Bill Tobin of North County Wine Company in San Marcos.
Every time I look over their wine tasting "newsletter" I nearly double over with laughter. The "writer" is their intern "Enrico" who skewers his bosses every chance he gets. On a recent choice of a blend at a wine event, Enrico snorted that "a frog with a blender would do better."
The reality is that the brothers Tobin offer great wines that are exciting and attractive, usually 7 generous tastes on Fridays from 4 to 9pm, plus appetizers, for just $10! On the night I was there, tastes included: Chalone, Rosenblum, New-ton, Provenance, Sterling and a "candy bar in a bottle" Desiree Dessert Wine ($15.97), a steal.
The Tobin's motto is: "great wines, great prices, guaranteed." See their site at www.northcountywinecompany.com.
Wine Bytes
- Slow Foods of the Temecula Valley has a Field to Fork wine and food event Sat. May 21 from 1 to 5 pm at Leonesse Cellars. World class chefs and wineries gather to create a food experience like no other. Advance tickets are $50. At the door it's $60. Contact 951-526-4540.
- WineSellar and Brasserie in San Diego is having a tasting of Italian Reds Sat. May 21 from 11:30 to 2 pm. $20. pp. Call 858-450-9557 for an RSVP.
- Little Italy in San Diego is having its annual Sicilian Festa Sat. May 21 from 10 to 4 pm. Celebrity Chef Giada De Laurentis and an authentic Sicilian wedding are the highlights. Admission is free. More info at 619-318-4908.
- The 16th annual Wine, Brews and Blues Festival is Sat. May 21 in Escondido at the Arts Center from 4 to 10pm. Cost is $60. Lots of wine, beer, food and blues music. Visit the web site www.bonsallrotary.com
- Lorimar Winery on Main Street Old Town Temecula presents Kansas City BBQ Wine & Blues Sat. May 21 from 3 to 8 pm. Full-on KC style buffet includes tri-tip, chicken and ribs. $73. pp. Call the winery at 951- 240-5177.
- Cicciotti’s Restaurant in Cardiff is hosting an olive oil and balsamic vinegar wine dinner, Wed. May 25, with a 6:15 pm reception and dinner at 7 pm. Encinitas’s Baker and Olive will be featured, along with wines from owner Paul Johnson. Cost is $85. ea. RSVP at 760-634- 2335.
- Vigiluccis in Carlsbad by the sea on the Coast Highway has a native Tuscan Wine Dinner Fri. May 20 at 6:30 pm. $80. ea. Four courses including Risotto alla Salsiccia and Grilled Bone-in Veal Chop. Wines include Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Di Montalcino. For an RSVP, call 760-434-2580.
Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. He is one of the leading wine commentators on the web. View his columns at www.tasteofwinetv.com. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
