Back to World-Class Italian Wines
The long dark winter for Italian wines is finally long gone! New releases from the long-awaited 2004 vintage from that most romantic of countries are getting rave reviews from the world’s wine connoisseurs and sommeliers. It seems to be across the board, from Piedmont to Sicily. What’s more, the ’05 and ’06 harvests are forecasted to be even better, especially the ’06. “I vini son belli” rings out from Italian winemakers who take these accolades to heart.
During the terrible ’02 harvest, I was in Tuscany and although brave faces were in evidence, I saw massive harvesting by machine, as vineyards raced the clock and the dark days and nights of October that brought cold rains and sometimes hail. This was not the traditional way Italians removed their treasured grapes from the vine.
There was no choice. I know of some reputable vineyards that plowed their Sangiovese crop into the ground rather than have a vintage that would ruin their carefully cultivated reputations. Sangiovese is the core grape of Chianti Classico, the star of Tuscan winemakers. It provides a clone of the master wine of Montalcino in southern Tuscany: Brunello di Montalcino. This wine stands tallest in Tuscany, maturing in large casks for four years, then a year in bottle.
We will, of course, have to wait a while longer before the light of day for the rich ’04 Brunello vintage. Meanwhile if you can get a hold of 2001 Brunellos, they are magnificent and will have to hold you until the ‘04’s are released. Several have received heady 100 point valuations by Wine Spectator.
The biggest producer to the U.S. is Castello Banfi (shown in the accompanying photo). It made 50,000 cases of its ’01 Brunello, and about 1/3 of that went to this country. It is Tuscany’s signature red. Owned by the American Mariani Family since 1978, it’s a big winery with 2,100 acres producing grapes. Today there are 260 vineyards making Brunello, all around the mountain town of Montalcino, one of the most gloriously beautiful elevations in the world.
The Banfi castle, Poggio alle Mura, is also the name of an equally impressive Banfi brand. I have stood under its shadows and have taken in this feeling of the spirit of winemaking in Italy. The winery now has luxury villas in the vineyard for visitors who want to stay awhile.
Take a look at www.castellobanfi.com.
Out of the wreckage of the ’02 harvest have emerged some young winemakers from unlikely new grape-grounds such as Bolgheri and Maremma, as well as newly won attention to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, all in Tuscany. A 100 point Merlot came out of Bolgheri: the ’04 Le Macchiole Messorio.It is also the home to the vaunted Sassicaia, making Cabernet that rivals anything in Napa. A knowledgable wine friend of mine just returned from Montepulciano and raved about the Vino Noble Riserva Sangiovese. Italy covets its native grapes going back thousands of years with natural winemaking that tastes of the land.
In the south, which escaped the wild weather of ’02 and ’03, Sicily, with its native Nero d’Avola grape, is finally being discovered by Italian wine enthusiasts. I saw it first in a fine Las Vegas Steakhouse. Amazing!
In November, two local Encinitas restaurants will give you the opportunity to taste wines from two of the masters. Via Italia Trattoria presents a chef’s dinner with the legendary Sassicaia family of wines from Bolgheri, Tuesday the 13th at 6:30pm. You don’t want to miss it. Call 760-479-9757 for RSVP and pricing.
Firenze Trattoria, also in Encinitas, brings in Marchese Antinori, a wine family I studied under, on Wednesday November 14 with a 6pm start. Be sure you take note of the Antinori ’01 Brunello di Montalcino served with New Zealand rack of lamb. Call 760-944-9000 for details.The Local Sip
• The Harvest Wine Celebration in Temecula Wine Country is two days of wine and food tasting for the one price of $83 per person Saturday and Sunday November 3rd and 4th from 10am to 4pm. 21 wineries are participating. This has been a storybook harvest and you will see big smiles of the faces of the winemakers who will be present. For tickets contact 800-801-9463.
• Jim Barrasso, the food and wine expert who runs Firefly in Encinitas will share his secrets in a series of classes at the Kitchen Witch Gourmet Shop in Encinitas on October 29, November 26 and December 10, all starting at 6pm. Preparation and selection will be emphasized. $55 per person per class. Call 760-942-3228 for details.
• Halloween comes to the Thornton Winery in Temecula Saturday, October 27, 6pm. This one, for adults, includes four star cuisine and award winning wines and champagnes and a high energy stage show by a celebrity hypnotist. $75 per person. RSVP at 951-699-0099.
• A Taste of Argentina is showcased at Holiday Wine Cellar in Escondido Saturday, October 27 from 5:30pm to 7:30pm. Cost is $18 each. Call 760-745-1200.
• Sunday, October 28th from 2 to 5pm is a good time to be at Carlsbad Wine Merchants for their last music and wine show. Great music by Rockin Rhea and a wine lineup for tasting. Call 760-804-9994.Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.
10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410
