ABOUT MERLOT

It’s been a slow-go for Merlot since the movie "Sideways" kicked the grape in the teeth in that now-famous emotional tirade by Miles, the main snob-infested character. Despite an expensive ad campaign called "Merlot Fights Back," some vineyards with a larger than normal crop in Napa and Sonoma will have to sell a good part of their production to low end predators at pennies on the dollar.

Overall, Merlot’s market share dipped slightly to about 11% of the market from the last reporting period. Vintners who still treasure Merlot, think it was a victim of its own success. It was so great so long, that producers jumped in that shouldn’t have and downgraded the wine (same story with Chardonnay.)

Merlot is a ubiquitous grape that seems to be in all appellations at all times. But it’s anything but mundane. The grape’s origin is the Bordeaux region of France, where it’s frequently mated up with Cabernet Sauvignon. The combination is known worldwide as the Bordeaux style blend, and used as the blueprint for many California blends.

Despite its reputation as soft on the palate, Merlot can make a statement and be confused with Cabernet. In France, where the grape’s strong identification still reigns, it is the leading grape in terms of production. The state of Washington is putting out some marvelously concentrated Merlots.

Locally, you have no further to go than Escondido. I was astounded to learn that for the 15th year, Orfila Winery invited guests and wine club members from all over the country to celebrate the right to purchase the newest "Ambassador’s Reserve" 2005 Merlot sometime in October of this year.

This right-at-the-top dinner affair was overflowing with fans of Merlot, which is Orfila’s flagship wine. Leon Santoro, an Italian born and Napa bred winemaker, is proving every day that quality wines can be made in San Diego County. His previous Merlot releases are solid award winners, and the 2005, I expect, will be no different. His guests agree, as they plunked thousands of dollars down on a wine they had yet to taste. Merlot lives!

* * *

I am fascinated by a small but elite body of wines, mainly in the Napa area, that have cultivated the mysterious and exotic "cult wine" status. They are hard to find and hugely expensive, with a tiny amount available to the public. Their wine clubs have at least a year’s wait to join.

There are some of these rarefied wines in France and Italy like Chateau Rothschild and Gaja, but never the concentration that you discover in Napa. Most of the wineries are what I would describe as reclusive. Screaming Eagle, the "grande dame" of cult wines, has a "frequently asked questions" feature that dominates their web site. In it, they do their best to: dissuade the visitor from coming to their winery, let you know that it takes years to get on their customer list and most of their past vintages are sold out.

The original owner sold out this year to an investment banker who promptly raised the current cabernet vintage to $500.00 a bottle. This is just a 54 acre property in Oakville and estimates are it went for 40 million dollars.

The Wall Street Journal recently quoted a 2002 Screaming Eagle Cabernet at $1,595. with about 500 cases produced. Their quote on the taste was: "tight, layered and classy, with intense blackberry-cherry fruit, spices, great warmth, with mineral underpinning. Drink this in tiny sips over many hours and each taste is like a world in itself."
Other cult wines would include: Harlan, Vineyard 29, Silver Oak, Grace and Colgi.

The Local Sip

Wine Street in Carlsbad has the newest release of Silver Oak Cabernet to taste this Friday from 5:30pm to 8pm, among others. Fee is $25.00, with more details at 760-431-8455.

* * *

South Coast Winery in the Temecula Wine Country has an intimate evening with the winemaker and executive chef as they pair their most exclusive wines with a 5 course dinner, Saturday, January 20th from 6pm to 9pm. Cost is $125. per person. Reservations at 951-587-9463, extension 7210.

* * *

An Italian wine seminar with expert and sommelier Don Jennings educating visitors to the Italian style of winemaking will highlight Carlsbad Wine Merchants, this Thursday from 6pm to 8pm. Cost is $25. with RSVP’s at 888-750-WINE.

Carlsbad resident Frank Mangio is a certified wine connoisseur.
Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com.

 

10631 Vinedale Street, Sun Valley, CA 91352 - Phone (818) 767-3413 - Fax: (818) 767-1410