Dear Readers,
The same boat, but a different float… Years ago the S.S. Augustus, Vulcania, Conte Biancamano, Orazio, Conte di Savoiaand the ill-fated S.S. Mafalda, owned by Navigazione Generale Italiana (NGI), the Italian steamship line based in Genova, were passenger ships that brought many of our parents or grandparents into New York Harbor.
Figuratively speaking, all of our parents were “in the same boat”when they began their voyage across the Atlantic Ocean. However, when a L’Italo- Americano reader, Marisa Colombo Russoof Salinas, California, wrote the story of her first class crossing in 1933 on the luxury liner S.S. Conte di Savoia and shared it with me, I became very aware that although everybody is in the same boat, making the crossing in first class instead of steerage is, amenities-wise, akin to crossing the Atlantic in a yacht versus a rowboat. Marisa Colombo Russo was born in Genova, Italy on May 17, 1926.
Her father, Angelo Colombo, was a purser on the luxury liners of the day and was away from home as long as three months at a time. In 1929 Italy was just beginning to unite under Mussolini’s new regime, and her father, although sympathetic, did not want to join the party – a must if you were to have a job in Italy.
So, her father, who was born in Alsace Lorraine, was able with his family to sail into the United States on a Frenchman’s quota. A year later Marisa, who was then seven, was accompanied by her paternal grandmother on a trip back to Italy for a summer vacation at their country home in Travo. As Marisa remembers, “Our accommodations were luxurious!...I guess it paid to know the right people! My father was acquainted with the ship’s Captain from his days as an officer and purser on the Italian Steamship Lines.
Because first class was virtually deserted, due to the Depression, we were given ‘royal quarters’! The S.S. Conte di Savoiawas a true floating palace. All of forty thousand tons or so, she could carry a maximum of two thousand passengers… “Our ‘state room’ was wall-papered in gold brocade, and all the blankets and spreads were crimson in color, with the Savoia coat of arms monogrammed in the center.
Very impressive indeed! “Globe trotting with my grandmother was like playing solitaire. You make your own fun. Nonna was a jovial, fun- loving lady, eager to enjoy her trip. She made friends with everyone and was soon busy with her newly-found companions from second class, since our first class was virtually devoid of passengers. “We especially enjoyed the company of a very nice Italian priest. Father Rinaldi became our chaperone and proved very helpful when we visited Casa-blanca and Monaco.
We did not disembark at Gibraltar. The latter were not scheduled stopping sites, but since we had on board the Crown Prince of Italy, Umberto di Savoia, who was returning from a visit to the United States, the slight detours were permitted. “I soon found first class a very solitary place.
The only passengers on that voyage were the Prince, who kept to himself in his ‘royal quarters,’ a middle- aged lady from Monaco who wore so many jewels she sparkled like a Christmas tree, her ten dogs, all housed in a special kennel on the deck, and a young couple who were just seen at meals, probably honeymooners. Of course, my grandmother and I completed the list.
“Our luxurious ship was equipped with a very enticing indoor swimming pool with an adjacent exercise room. Nearby, to the delight of all young parents, there was a fantastic playroom. It was a miniature fairy-land! Very gracious stewardesses supervised the activities, and the parents could go off guiltless to enjoy themselves. “A nurse was always on hand in her white, starched uniform.
She was young and very pretty, eager to soothe all the ‘boo- boos’! There was also, as I recall, a small carousel, huge sandbox, rocking horse, ‘kiddy cars’ and small tricycles. “A new daily puppet show as the afternoon entertainment and a Shirly Temple movie were also on the little people’s menu. Eight o’clock was closing time and it reopened the next morning with new features.
The adults spent their evenings playing cards, watching a movie, chatting, going to the bar or dancing in the ornate ballroom to the tune of the ship’s great band. “In my daily wanderings I also discovered a very impres- sive chapel. It was stunning. Small, plush and so elegant. It too carried out the royal color scheme of red velvet and gold coat of arms of the Savoia Royal house.
Prince Umberto must have felt at home with all these reminders of his family caste. The pews, twelve of them, six on one side, six on the other, with a red carpet running down the aisle to the altar, were all upholstered in red velvet with matching kneelers. The altar was exquisite! Ornate embroidered white linens and fresh flowers everyday. Mass was celebrated daily at eight o’clock by the ship’s chaplain. If there were other priests on board, they were welcome to celebrate Mass until twelve.
“I did make some friends in the playroom, bus as usual I preferred adult company and many a day I would entertain these passengers with my recital of various poems of ‘adult caliber.’ Dante’s sonnets to his love Beatrice, some of my distant cousin’s poetry, namely Alessandro Manzoni, author of the masterpiece ‘The Betrothed’and various patriotic pieces an aunt, Zia Ernesta, also a writer and poet, had taught me. Soon I had my own fans and I was less lonely.
“I also enjoyed exploring the ship as much as was allowed. Third class was off limits and so were the kitchens. The engine room could be visited, but only by special permission and you had to be over eighteen. “Believe it or not, I hardly ever saw my grandmother during the day, except at meal time when we had special seating. I was so busy snooping around all by myself, I even forgot to get sea sick! “The charming and elegant library called out to me almost every day.
There were some wonderful children’s books that I especially enjoyed – Grimm’s Fairy Tales and Il Cuore (The Heart) by De Amicis. “The progression of our trip could be followed daily on a large map accessible to all the passengers. A little red flag was pinned daily on the map, moving closer to Italy. This to me was fascinating and I checked our position every morning to assure myself that all was well… “The ‘gala dinner’ took place on out fifth day at sea. We were nearing the end of our journey. The dinner was an extra special event, and in first class, formal attire was required.
“Since the ‘lonely’ Italian Crown Prince Umberto had been in his private quarters most of the journey, the Captain thought it only proper to invite him to his table to share the gala dinner and entertainment. He accepted with pleasure and about sixty guests were rounded up from second class, all specially selected of course.
“Father Rinaldi, a bit of a royalist, was thrilled to be given the honor to ‘break bread’ with the son of his King Emmanuel! “My grandmother, the eternal busybody that she was, had previously met the Captain through my father the evening of our departure. She asked him if he would like me to recite a very moving poem entitled ‘The Last Farewell to Italy of the Italian Emigrant’ (L’addio all’Italia dell’Emigrante).
“The orchestra finally struck up the Marcia Reale (Royal Anthem), and everyone stood up…then the lights dimmed and it was my turn. “I took my usual bow…I was on! I delivered the touching verses with all my heart and soul. After all, I knew how an emigrant felt in his heart. I was one myself! I must admit, my beautiful ode was a true tear jerker and in the end there wasn’t a dry eye in the room.
“When I took my last bow, the Prince rushed up to shake my trembling hand. He congrat- ulated me and placed an ever so gentle kiss on my forehead, then patted my cheek. “Brava!” he said. Then he took me by the hand and walked me over to where my proud grandmother was seated and thanked her for the wonderful gift offered the Royal Family and his Country!
