That
Beloved Taste of Our Favorite Holiday Meal Can Be a Learned Experience
That Sometimes Takes Years to Develop
Italian traditional dishes may sometimes include: squid, stuffed with
bread crumbs and baked in tomato sauce, sauted mustard greens in garlic,
olive oil and red pepper flakes, roasted bell peppers bathed in garlic,
parsley and olive oil, baccalà stew, eggplant parmesan, and sliced
oranges seasoned with olive oil, garlic salt and black pepper.
Like
most Italian American kids, I wasn't born liking these unique family
foods. My fondness for them developed over a period of years, after
years of sniffing their piquant aromas drifting in from Grandma's kitchen
I came to associate them, like I did most of our traditional foods,
with a feeling of love, togetherness, and a sense of well being.
Grandpa
believed, like many from the old county, that a meal of his favorite
foods relieved the tensions of a stressful day. He also believed that
our spirit sighs after a good meal and that we should spend that time
in rest and reflection.
For
me, each taste of these traditional foods rekindles family customs,
memories and a sense of legacy.
However, to someone who doesn't share my heritage, and has never come
face to face with a casserole of baked squid, the sight of these small,
tentacled relatives of the octopus can be somewhat unsettling.
To
prepare and gather these provincial foods takes extra time and care.
But that's all a part of their charm and tradition. Like my mom always
says, "Food that is too easily prepared is like opening a bottle
of champagne without the "pop"; it would eliminate half the
fun".
Christmas
Eve just wouldn't be Christmas Eve without the robust aroma of baccalà
filling the air. This dehydrated salted cod fish comes from the store
dried in salt and is the texture of wood until it is soaked in water
for twenty-four hours, making sure to change the water every few hours.
Then it is simmered in a stew pot of spicy tomato sauce and served with
white spaghetti. This dish recalls priceless memories for mom, memories
that can't be found in today's fast foods.
Many
of our family recipes come from the regions of our ancestors: polenta,
butter and flat noodles from the Northern area of Italy and sea food
and tubular pasta form the south.
I'm
fortunate to have had grandparents who came from several regions of
Italy. As a child, Grandma Isolina worked in her father's semolina mill
in the town of Pescara, in the region of Abruzzo. This area, close to
the Adriatic Sea, has the best of both worlds and has produced some
of the world's finest chefs. The sea food, vegetation and olive groves
are plentiful and today it is the only saffron growing region in Italy.
My
Grandma Maria came from the small, hilly town of Tricarico, where meat
was scarce and tomato sauces were made from sun dried tomatoes. Her
people had to be a lot more creative and resourceful with their menu.
Dried pork sausages, beans, peas, pasta and wild mustard greens made
up the town’s diet.
There
is a sense of family continuity and memories that come along with these
traditional foods. Family dishes, like our heritage, are intertwined
in our
daily lives. They're what connects us to our past.
To
my knowledge, my grandparents never ate a fast food hamburger. Dining
at one of today's modern nouvelle cuisine restaurants, where the entree
is six peas and a one inch steak, would have left them hungry and asking:
"Where's the beef, pasta, Chianti and garlic toast?”
My
Italian grandma could do wonders in the kitchen with a little flour
and water. She believed it was just as important to begin new traditions
as it was to uphold the old ones.
The
following is a traditional pasta noodle recipe handed down through the
generations. Why not begin a pasta tradition of your own?
Ingredients:
2 cups of all purpose flour;
1 egg (lightly beaten);
1/2 teaspoon of salt;
water ( enough to fill the flour well).
Preparation:
Pour flour in mound onto work board, make a cup-like well in the flour.
Add egg, oil, salt and enough water to fill the well. With a fork, gradually
pull in flour from inside edges of the well. Gather up the flour and
begin to knead into a dough. After ten minutes of kneading, the dough
should become smooth, shiny and elastic. Divide and dust each part with
flour.
Roll
out into paper thin sheets. To create fettuccine noodles roll the thin
sheets up jelly-roll fashion and cut into 1/4 inch slices. Quickly unroll
after cutting and sprinkle with flour.
Cook
in 6 qt pot of boiling, salted water for 5 or 8 minutes, or until just
tender to taste. Serve with your favorite tomato sauce or white sauce
made with one quarter pound butter, creamed, gradually beat in 1/4 cup
heavy cream and 1/2 cup parmesan cheese, salt and pepper to taste.
"Buon appetito!" (Good
appetite).