COOKING
UP SUCCESS IN AMERICA
Family
Business spelled success for my Italian American Dad (on Dad’s
right hand was a permanent callus, formed there by the cooking spatula
he used for so many years flipping burgers on a hot grill.)
The Bay Area is an eclectic mix of houses and people reflecting a unique
blending of styles and cultures. Perhaps that’s why this area
was the chosen home for my Italian grandparents, uncles and aunts who
came to America during the great Migration. The different styles and
backgrounds they brought with them grace our family heritage with pride
and memories. Subsequent generations proudly followed the traditions
and heritage of their families, while at the same time assimilating
into the American California culture, to eventually becoming the middle
class.
It
was in this middle class that I was born. It is where I have spent the
past 63 years of my life. Like most residents, I have a keen awareness
and reverence for things past, as well as a feeling of pride in my present
community.
The
generation I grew up in has undergone many changes and upheavals. But
one thing still remains strong, the feelings of tradition and family
unity that our parents and grandparents instilled in us and in our community.
Success
for the Italian American immigrant depended a great deal on family unity.
Working together as a unit was the catalyst for achieving a successful
goal in the New World.
The
year was 1939 when my dad, Rocci Curci, and five of his younger brothers
- Nick, Joe, Tony, Frank and Sal - decided to take advantage of San
Francisco’s busy downtown area to open a fast food diner. Growing
up on a prune ranch in the Almaden valley of San Jose, they knew little
about the restaurant business, but the young entrepreneurs sensed a
golden opportunity in the bustling city and decided to make the best
of a 50 mile commute to work to find some measure of success in a struggling
economy.
The
young brothers named their new business Hamburger King, featuring, what
else, but juicy burgers hot off a sizzling grill: 10cents served on
a bun and 15 cents served on a French roll. Some days the neon lights
of the diner could hardly be seen through the thick fog that rolled
in from the bay.
The
rumble and roll of the streetcars cut through this dense fog every morning
with the clank-clank of their bells announcing their arrival on Chestnut
Street, just in front of Hamburger King, the family owned diner. The
trolley cars shuttled dozens of hungry customers in and out daily. Patrons
enjoyed the family atmosphere of the diner and that lingering cup of
hot Java sipped over their morning chronicle.
The
small business proved to be a good investment for the five brothers
and feeling a sense of new found security they agreed to reinvest in
their new business and expand the building. The paint on the walls of
their new establishment wasn’t dried yet when the news of the
attack on Pearl Harbor blasted over the airwaves. December 7th 1941
brought an immediate and unforeseen change in their lives. Unexpected
world events would suddenly put an end to their personal plans.
Just
weeks after the United States declared war on Japan, Dad and his five
brothers were drafted or volunteered to join the armed services. Dad,
who failed to pass the Army physical exam, because of a chronic heart
problem, remained behind to run the business.
Overnight
the Hamburger King became a favorite eating spot for the many GIs stationed
nearby at the San Francisco Presidio, Trees Island and Yacht harbor.
Dad was overwhelmed by the success of the business. It was just too
much for him to handle by himself. After a family meeting, it was decided
that Grandma and Grandpa Dinapoli would rent an apartment in San Francisco
for the duration. In that way Dad and the family could avoid a daily
commute by spending a few days a week at their house. Mom and dad would
often say of those days, "knowing we were all going to be together
at the end of the work day, warm and comfortable in grandma’s
home gave us the strength to see it through those impossible years."
The
overwhelming obligation to meet the monthly bills kept my grandparents
hustling frantically in the kitchen. Papa, a creative cook with a glistening
smile, consistently came up with a new "dinner special" every
day. They say necessity is the mother of invention, and the need to
keep the bills paid helped inspire many of papa’s recipes. This
pride and creativity that my grandparents felt in their cooking trickled
down to their sons and thier wives who were ready to step in to work
at any station at the diner that needed attention.
It
didn’t take long for the young serviceman to find a taste of home
in grandma and grandpa's cooking style. Homemade staples were a favorite,
such as sauces, stocks and soups seasoned with Italian herbs, flat parsley,
and garlic. Their food was a warm reminder of what the servicemen were
missing and the family they left behind.
During
those long war years, everyone in the family pitched in to keep the
business going. Mom recalls of that time, "learning the diner slang
was half the work": a nervous pudding (Jell-O), Adam and Eve on
a raft (two eggs on toast), a pig between two blankets (Ham on white
bread), squeeze one (orange juice), and the popular sinkers and Java
(donuts and coffee).
After
the war, all of Dad's brothers returned safely home from overseas. Dad,
tired of the daily commute, decided to open a small business "The
Pronto Pup" creamery in the Willow Glen area of San Jose. His brother
Frank Dinapoli remained in San Francisco to open several more successful
restaurants, among them, The Tides at Bodega Bay and the Vagabond Villa
in San Francisco.
Brothers
Tony and Nick moved to Santa Cruz California and opened the "Merry–Go-Round
restaurant”, a Beach Street landmark for over 30 years. Later
Nick and his wife Nancy opened the popular Di Napoli’s on Soquel
Ave in Santa Cruz and Sal Dinapoli was the executive chef at Castagnola’s
in Santa Cruz and Plateau 7 in San Jose.
What
dad had learned from his experiences at the 1940s Hamburger King diner
he brought to his 1950s Pronto Pup Creamery. The pleasant aroma of burgers
and fries mixed with the tantalizing smell of Italian sausages; tomato
sauce and delectable pasta made his version of the soda shop a unique
experience and a huge success. Mom made all the sausages and tomato
sauce in the soda shop’s tiny back kitchen, while dad did the
fry cooking.
The
Pronto Pup creamery gave Dad the means to invest in real estate and
to open several other businesses. Eventually, dad got out of the fast
food business and, with his brother Tony, opened Curci’s Restaurant
in Scott’s Valley Ca. Featuring fine Italian cuisine, this was
to be Dad’s last business, but it was his most successful. Mom
and I worked in the kitchen and waited on tables. There was always a
job available for family.
All
together, Dad and his brothers owned over 15 different dinner houses,
diners, and donut shops in the Bay Area. Sometimes the long hours and
the nickels and dime income put the strain on family finances, but eventually
all the family businesses were successful.
Someone
once asked my Grandpa DiNapoli his secret for success. His answer: "Pray
for the things you want; work for the things you need.”
My
immigrant grandparents, and their children, worked long, hard, hours
to acquire all the things they would need. And, eventually, they were
granted all they could ever want in the new world.