THE FOODS OF LATIUM

The Eternal City has been a melting pot for foods from other places since the Roman legions began collecting recipes and provisions, and, in some cases, cooks, from the far reaches of the empire. As the national capital, Rome has drawn culinary inspiration from Italian regions north and south, though most substantially from the home provinces of Latium.

Today, as a world center of art, religion, politics and trade, Roman eateries cater to visitors ranging from diplomats and jet-setters to pilgrims and backpackers. This compulsory cosmopolitanism may explain why precious little has been preserved of the epicurism of the ancient Romans or of the papal and princely courts of later eras.

Yet what remains of la cucina romana provides some of the most flavorful foods of Italy served in some of its liveliest surroundings. For, beyond purely gastronomic aspects, eating is a social event to Romans, who on Sundays and holidays love to gather family and friends around tables as plates, glasses and bottles multiply with the passing hours.

Memorable meals in the region of Latium begin with arrays of antipasti that alone would make feasts: platters of frutti di mare, anchovies, sardines, tuna, fried shrimp, prosciutto, salame, olives, mushrooms, pickles, sun-dried tomatoes, sweet-sour onions, peas and beans with pork, pizze, focacce, canapés, vegetable tarts, frittate with potatoes and onions, stuffed eggplants, peppers and tomatoes, croquettes of rice, vegetables or meats, breads grilled and flavored with garlic and oil as bruschetta or sliced and topped with meat and vegetable pastes or cheeses as crostini.

Roman menus feature spaghetti alla carbonara and bucatini all'amatriciana, as well as tubes of rigatoni and penne. Fresh pasta may be flat as lasagne, rolled as cannelloni or cut in strips as the celebrated fettuccine, often identified with a restaurant called Alfredo.

A few traditional dishes from Latium follow:

BROCCOLETTI ALLA ROMANA
Ingredients:
1 lb. broccoli
2 tbs. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic
1 peperoncino
salt to taste

Preparation:
Wash the broccoli, removing the large stems and larger leaves. Cook in salted boiling water for a few minutes, then drain and set aside.

Brown the garlic in the oil in a large skillet. Add the peperoncino and, when the garlic is brown, remove it and add the broccoli. Salt to taste and cook until tender but still crisp.

Serve as a side dish to any white meat courses, such as fowl or pork.

CARCIOFI ALLA ROMANA
Ingredients:
8 small artichokes
juice of 1 lemon
1 sprig wild mint, chopped
1 clove garlic, chopped
8 tbs. olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
Remove the tough outer leaves of the artichokes. Trim off the tips of the leaves and the skin off the stem with a sharp knife. Do not cut off the stem. Open the leaves and remove the beard from the center. Place the artichokes in cold water and lemon juice, to avoid discoloration.

Wash and chop finely the wild mint and garlic. Remove the artichokes from the water, open the leaves and fill the center with mint, garlic, salt and pepper.

Then place them upside down tight against each other (with the stem up) in a pot at least as tall as the artichokes. Salt and pepper to taste, sprinkle olive oil, add as much cold water as needed to just cover the artichokes, cover and let cook over medium heat for about one hour.

Cool and place them in a deep dish and cover with the cooking juice (if too liquid, first reduce over a high flame). They are best served warm, but may also be served at room temperature.
Note: Be careful about seasoning liquid before cooking, since if it needs to be reduced later it may be over salty.

CARNE ALLA PIZZAIOLA
Ingredients:
1 lb. beef round
1 tsp. oregano
4 tbs. olive oil
1 lb. tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 tbs. parsley, chopped

Preparation:
Slice the beef into 1/2-in. thick slices. Brown the garlic in olive oil and remove when brown. Add the beef, brown on both sides, add tomatoes and oregano. Bring to a simmer, then turn down the fire and cook for 15 mins. Remove from heat and add chopped parsley. Arrange in serving platter and serve.

Although sometimes chopped olives and anchovies are added, the term pizzaiola indicates a sauce made with tomatoes, garlic and oregano only.

FAGIOLI CON LE COTICHE
Ingredients:
1 lb. fresh pork rinds
1 cup borlotti beans, soaked overnight
1 tbs. lard, chopped
1 tbs. butter
2 tbs. olive oil
2 celery stalks
2 small onions
2 small carrots
2 cloves garlic
1 pinch pepper
1 cup beef broth
1/4 cup peeled tomatoes
freshly ground pepper

Preparation:
Place the pork rinds, one onion (cut into large pieces), and the cloves of garlic in a large pot. Cover with cold water, bring to a low simmer, and cook for 2 hours or till the pork rinds are tender. Boil the beans in lightly salted water for one hour or till tender.

Prepare a soffritto in a casserole with lard, butter, oil and the finely chopped onions, celery and carrots and cook over medium heat. Add a pinch of freshly ground pepper.

Let cook till tender but not brown, add the drained beans and pork rinds cut into 2-in. long strips. Add the peeled tomatoes and broth and cook for half an hour. Serve piping hot.

SALTIMBOCCA ALLA ROMANA
Ingredients:
1 lb. top round veal
1/4 lb. sliced prosciutto
sage leaves
1 cup flour 1/2 cup beef broth (optional)
2 tbs. olive ail
4 tbs. butter
1 glass white wine
salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:
Cut the veal into thin slices and flatten with a wooden mallet. Place a slice of ham over each slice of meat with a sage leaf in the center. Roll them up and close them with a toothpick as you would a safety pin (it should not go across the involtini but make a stitch along the sides).

Put the oil and butter in a saucepan. Lightly dust the involtini with flour and sauté over medium flame for 3 mins. Add wine and simmer for another 2 mins.
Add salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the involtini on a serving platter. In the skillet used to cook the involtini, let the cooking juices reduce for a minute, then pour over the involtini. Serve immediately.

SUPPLI' ALLA ROMANA
Ingredients:
1 oz. dried mushrooms
2 onions, chopped
4 oz. butter
8 oz. rice
6 tbs. Parmigiano
2 oz. chicken livers, chopped
3 oz. lean veal, chopped
1 oz. prosciutto
1 tbs. tomato paste
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced
salt
1/4 lb. mozzarella, diced
2 eggs
flour
breadcrumbs
frying oil

Preparation:
Reconstitute the mushrooms in lukewarm water, chop and set aside. Sauté one onion in 2 oz. butter in a saucepan. When the onions are soft, add the rice. Make a risotto as in basic recipe and let it cool.

Make a ragù by sautéing one onion in the remaining butter. When onions are soft, add the chopped livers, veal, prosciutto, and mushrooms. Add the tomato paste diluted in 1 cup warm water, salt and let simmer over a low flame. Let the mixture cook and reduce to achieve a rather thick ragù. Remove from heat and cool.

Take a small amount of rice in the palm of your hand, flatten the rice and place in the center a teaspoonful of the prepared ragù, and few pieces of Mozzarella. Close your palm and form a ball. Make sure the filling is securely closed in the center of the ball (twice the size of a walnut). Roll the rice ball into flour, beaten egg and breadcrumbs, continue until the rice is finished.

Fry the suppld in hot oil until golden brown and crunchy. Serve immediately, plain or with a tomato or meat sauce on the side.

Buon appetito!!

 

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